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SteelSeries Rival 3 In-depth Review: A Silly-good $30 mouse...is it worth upgrading to $65?

Just an FYI:
I bought this mouse with my own money, so definitely ZERO BS in my opinions of this product. All opinions and criticisms are 100% my own.
*For those wondering about the "upgrading to $65" part that will be towards the bottom of the review*
A Short Blurb about me:
Hand-Size: 19.05 cm x 10.8 cm
Current Mice That I Own/Have Owned: Endgame Gear XM1, Xtrfy M4, Wicked Bunny Rapid RGB, Steelseries Rival 310, Steelseries Rival 3, Steelseries Sensei Ten (current main), Steelseries Rival 600, Roccat Kain 120, Roccat Kone Pure Ultra, CoolerMaster MM710, Logitech G Pro, Logitech G Pro Wireless, Logitech G502, Logitech G602, Logitech M570, G-Wolves Skoll, G-Wolves Hati, Elecom Huge Trackball mouse (main general use mouse), Gamesir GM300 (just got this mouse to test, the review will be coming soon)
Mouse Pad Used For Testing: Wicked Bunny Sprint (Cordura fabric like the Coolermaster MP510)
Grip Style/s: Relaxed Fingertip (Main Grip), Fingertip (when I have to)
All pictures and clips are from a craptastic cell phone camera in a room with poor light, I apologize in advance if I make any photography majors cringe.
Grip Left side view: https://imgur.com/4hzQ8sp
Grip Right side view (Sorry, weird angle): https://imgur.com/XMJmGfa
Mouse/Hand Gap: https://imgur.com/T0GE1i2
Bottom view: https://imgur.com/HLJ5lcS

The first thing anyone will notice about this product is how tiny the box is. It is the smallest box of any mouse I have EVER seen (I have a sneaky suspicion that's why my local Wal-Mart started putting anti-theft devices on them). The materials used for the packaging are mediocre, however that is to be expected for a $30 mouse (not nearly as skimpy as the Coolermaster MM710 packaging, I think this was the reason for so many issues). No issues with typos that I could find. After you open the box you are greeted with the mouse that is covered with a thin plastic bag that is cleverly inserted into a thick cardboard insert, which utilizes ALL of the available space inside the box. The only other thing in the box is the instructions and that's it. For the price point the mouse is actually protected well and I wouldn't be afraid of having one shipped to you.
Packaging and Contents: https://imgur.com/XBCWtyJ

Mouse Dimensions and Shape:
120.6 MM in length x 58.3 MM- 67 MM in Width x 21.50-37.9 MM in Height. That would make this a small-medium ambidextrous shaped mouse. It is meant to be used with Claw and Fingertip grips. For my hand-size this mouse felt wonderful in relaxed fingertip/fingertip grip, however for smaller hands claw may feel great.
The hump is more towards the middle of the mouse than the MM710 or XM1. Placing this mouse side-by-side with the Sensei Ten it looks like a smaller version of it. It feels similar to the Sensei Ten but not quite an exact miniaturized version of it. The Rival 3's sides feel like this ) ( , but shallow. It doesn't have deep impressions like the Roccat Kone Pure does. It keeps your thumb in place nicely while gaming. The biggest difference that you will feel between the two , and the XM1 as well, is that the flare in the back of the mouse does not flow like the Sensei Ten and XM1. The flare where my thumb rests feels more like a diagonal line to where the flare starts, while the other two feel like the design flows more rounded and fluid from the grip area to the flare. It doesn't feel better or worse, it just feels different. This mouse has low front mouse clicks similar to the other two. Out of the XM1, Sensei Ten, and Rival 3 my fingers sit the lowest to the desk on the XM1, Rival 3 being a solid (but noticeable) second, while the Sensei Ten has my fingers sitting the highest. The mouse clicks have subtle comfort curves that start roughly half way down the buttons (towards the front). I unfortunately don't feel them since my fingertips stop close to where the curve starts. The tips of the mouse clicks have subtle fingertip cradles in them that allows your fingertips to rest for claw grippers. Sadly for me I don't have Go-Go Gadget fingers to use them in-game with my grip style. In my book the Rival 3's shape is a win.
Rival 3 and XM1 top down view: https://imgur.com/5BBo9fv
Rival 3 and XM1 side view: https://imgur.com/1tSAT5o
Rival 3 and Sensei Ten top down view: https://imgur.com/Dn5ODMX
Rival 3 and Sensei Ten side view: https://imgur.com/jI6IYV1
The coating is matte (REAL matte, not a semi-gloss like the Sensei Ten) with a fine, smooth texture to it. It resembles a PBT keycap and doesn't irritate the skin. This coating really helps to instill confidence in your grip. The coating does not show fingerprints easily and is simple to wipe clean. It makes a fantastic first impression. The word "premium" crossed my mind more than once as my big mitts fondled it's curves.
Mouse Clicks:
The mouse clicks are 60M Zippy switches. They are light, have middling tactility, spammable and QUIET. That last part may be a game changer for those with roommates, kids, co-workers or easily pissed off spouses. The switches are the exact same ones that are found in the (more than double the price) big brother the Sensei Ten but are lighter. I think the reason for this is because the Rival 3 has split triggers while the Sensei Ten uses a uni-body design. The tactility isn't as snappy as the XM1 switches but not nearly as mushy as the G-Wolves Skoll that I have. These buttons are great for jitter-clicking and those that marathon Kovaak's Aim Trainer or OSU may love this. There isn't any pre-travel on the 3 copies that I've tried. If you click slowly you immediately start to feel the spring compress and almost immediately after that the switch actuates. It feels like a fairly short-throw switch but the XM1 is noticeably shorter. All copies did have a small amount of post-travel, but it was definitely not noticeable in game. The clicks become lighter the further down you press on the clicks, so a fingertip user will have slightly stiffer clicks than someone that uses this mouse for claw grip and places their fingers more towards the front. The clicks have a tiny amount of side to side play but it's not noticeable in use and better than most of the new mice (that cost way more) that have come out recently.
Click sound test 1: https://imgur.com/1WFJRoB
Click sound test 2: https://imgur.com/447nMEX
Rival 3 Vs. XM1 click sound test: https://imgur.com/6UFyBI0
Side Buttons:
Let's get this out of the way first. Yes the buttons are small. I've heard so many people complain about them that it's annoying now. Especially when a lot of those people are using this CLAW/FINGERTIP grip mouse in palm (even though it is marketed as a STRICTLY claw/fingertip mouse). At first...yes it is a bit disconcerting because they are so thin, but after an hour or two I didn't mis-click or miss a button press. I honestly didn't even think about them after that 1-2 hour period. Would I have liked thicker mouse buttons? Yes. Was it a detriment to my game play in ANY WAY past the initial learning period? No. I think they made the buttons this thin to allow for bigger thumbs to comfortably use this mouse without making the mouse taller. These resemble the shape of the MM710 side buttons in a way since they stick out of the mouse like a triangle (point outward). These buttons are obviously shaped to be pressed from the bottom up by rolling your thumb upward, not back and forth like on a lot of palm grip-centric mice. This shape also helps with picking the mouse up as well depending on how you grip the mouse. I also think that for claw grippers you wont have any issues at all, depending on your hand size of course. The front button feels sharper on all 3 copies with a good amount of post-travel (if you press hard), while the back button feels less tactile in comparison with noticeably more post-travel (again, if your monster mashing it). I am not 100% sure if they are using the same switches as Mouse 1&2 but they feel much more tactile in comparison. With all things considered I quite like the placement and feel of these buttons.
Side button sound test 1: https://imgur.com/F3LlqBc
Side button sound test 2: https://imgur.com/SK54tA2
DPI Button:
The DPI button is raised more than some mice that I've used but it never got in my way while gaming. It feels snappy with a medium level of tactility. No complaints.
Scroll Wheel And M3 (Scroll Wheel Click):
When scrolling down the steps feel defined but a little scratchy. When scrolling one notch at a time the scroll wheel stops abruptly after each bump. So for anyone that uses this for weapon swapping, or for jumping/double jumping there is no guess work on what weapon was picked or when the double jump was activated. It is just easy enough to scroll and is virtually silent. When scrolling up however it is MUCH scratchier feeling, and loud when scrolled moderately-fast to fast. The saving grace is that the scratchy sound is quiet when you only scroll one or two steps at a time. The tactility is still there at least and feels the same as when scrolled down. The rubber material on the Scroll Wheel feels nice and grippy without irritating the skin.
The M3 click is quiet, easy to actuate and completely spammable. I like this click a lot, especially since I use it often in certain games to dodge. The M3 side actuation is just as easy to press as it is to press straight down, another win. It only actuates while pressing to the right though, sorry middle finger users. The first time you side actuate the wheel you may feel a double press, this doesn't happen again unless you manually push the wheel back towards the left. Overall I think the Scroll wheel functions great, the only gripes that I have with it I would consider minor. I think very few will complain about it, but I had to mention it for all of the mouse connoisseurs out there.
Scroll wheel and M3 Sound test (listen closely towards the end of the clip to hear that double press that I was talking about): https://imgur.com/bEsXMrm
Mouse Feet:
The stock mouse feet are standard Teflon mouse feet. These in particular are not as fast as the stock G-wolves mouse feet, but they don't feel super slow either. After you break them in they feel smoother, a bit quicker but still maintain good control. They cover a nice amount of surface area and have placed the mouse feet well. They placed two smaller mouse feet in the front and a much bigger foot in the back making a smiley face for your viewing pleasure (or a happy mistake). This is the smart play since more weight will be in the back since that is where most of the weight of your hand rests. There is a cutout around the sensor for a mouse foot but they chose not to put one there. I would have preferred to have one around it since this would take some pressure off of the middle of the mouse and disperse the weight more evenly. However, this mouse is relatively short from front to back which mitigates the problem. The downfall of these skates is how thin they are and the fact that they don't have rounded edges. I don't feel like these will last long which will force you to find aftermarket options. Steelseries does sell replacement mouse feet on their website for around $5, but in my honest opinion I would look elsewhere. The non-rounded edges didn't bother me, nor did I find them to be scratchy, but if you use a really soft mouse pad I have little doubt that you will. Not to mention that when they start to really wear down you will most likely feel it on your mousepad. A nice touch is that they added deep cutouts next to the mouse feet for easy, non-destructive removal. Overall I like the shape of the feet, but they are too thin and could have used rounded edges. PTFE feet on a budget mouse may be too much to ask for.
Cable and Strain Relief:
This cable would have been praised as one of the absolute best cables available...4 years ago. This is by far the biggest con (build wise) of the whole mouse. It is however relatively lightweight and is small in diameter. It isn't crazy stiff but it does hold some of the jankiness that happens while sitting in packaging for a while. After about 3-4 days the kinks started to work themselves out but there was a loop that never completely went away even after undoing it several times. Every now and then it would hit the back of my hand while swiping upward which was super distracting. In my experience I didn't notice the cable 95% of the time when I put it in the bungee built into my monitor; while it was on a bungee at desk-level I didn't feel it around 90% of the time. The strain relief is also a minor con since it is not angled and comes straight out. Luckily the strain relief is flexible so if you have the bungee up higher like I did it really helps to eliminate the feeling of cable drag. If you're at desk level...not so much. Both problems are not deal breakers but definitely something to be aware of. (Sorry I accidentally deleted the photos of the original mouse feet).
Full Strain Relief (outside of the mouse): https://imgur.com/B3MBKQt
Weight and Balance:
All 3 mice that I tried weighed 81g with a bit of cable on my scale. This was nice to see consistency in their molding process. The mouse feels very balanced. I grip the mouse with my thumb and ring finger (parallel from each other) to find where the weight distribution is on all my mice. I like this weight. It is light enough to where it disappears in my hand when I play but heavy enough to feel stable. Two thumbs up.
Stock weight: https://imgur.com/TrjaqNI
Balance test: https://imgur.com/VGi0Ynz
The TrueMove Core Sensor, which I believe is a version of the Pixart PMW 3331, has cpi steps ranging from 100 to 8,500 CPI. These can be adjusted in steps of 100. It has 35g of acceleration, which isn't the quickest that I've seen but faster than some mouse favorites that have come out in 2019 and 2020. This is a big part of how they were able to keep the cost so low. HOWEVER, I don't want anyone to think that this thing can't keep up in fast paced games. I mainly play FPS games and no matter how fast I moved this mouse it never lost track or was any less precise than my PMW 3360,3366, HERO or 3389 sensors. It feels just like a 3360 sensor to me, but not as snappy as a 3389. I never got this mouse to spin out. I will say, I have heard reports of some users having occasional spin outs on hard mouse pads. Sadly I do not have a hard mouse pad anymore to test this. The two biggest problems that this sensor has is 1) The liftoff distance, and 2) The sensor placement.
The sensor liftoff distance didn't bother me much since I use 800 DPI and my 360 degree range is roughly a few inches shorter (width wise) than the Artisan Raiden XL. I think this liftoff distance will affect those that use their entire desk space to make a 360 degree turn. For those that barely lift their mice I don't think that the liftoff distance will be an issue. The sensor liftoff distance can not be changed in the software...bummer.
EDIT My exact 360 range is 17.05 inches/43.30 centimeters. This was calculated here https://gamepros.gg/mouse-sensitivity-converter for any that are interested.
The sensor placement is the BIGGEST con for me, even above the cable and strain relief. It is located too far back. Some folks have raised their DPI levels to combat this problem, but for me I didn't want to mess with my muscle memory. This is a problem because your up, down, left, and right movements will be exactly the same as any another mouse, BUT when you make an arcing motion with this mouse this makes you have to move your wrist, arm, or both (depending on if you're a finger, wrist, arm, or a hybrid aimer) just a bit more to hit the same target. It was frustrating missing targets by a hair... The sensor should have been at minimum dead center. Even after serving these 2 big glasses of Haterade I was able to get used to it...mostly. I never broke any records in Kovaak's with it, but it did make the top 5. I was hit or miss with it in PvP games. It was mostly good. It was great at tracking, but my muscle memory never completely let me get used to long flick shots. In the sensors defense I was getting better with it every day, but I had to stop using it since I did not want to reset my muscle memory back to zero when I test other mice. In short: The sensor doesn't suck, the liftoff distance and sensor placement (in my opinion) does.
Look closely at where the sensor is in relation to my thumb in every picture. I gripped all 3 with the same grip.
Rival 3 sensor placement: https://imgur.com/HLJ5lcS
Sensei Ten sensor placement: https://imgur.com/Slf2977
XM1 sensor placement: https://imgur.com/iG9khp1
The RGB has no business being this nice on a budget mouse. The RGB lights are diffused VERY well and is really hard to tell where the lights are on the Mouse PCB. I love that the RGB makes a "U" shape around the sides and back bottom edge of the mouse giving off an under-glow effect when looking straight down. Oh yeah...the logo lights up too... It has 3 distinct lighting zones that can be controlled individually. The RGB is crazy bright. The biggest con to the RGB is that you can't adjust the RGB brightness, you just have to choose a darker shade of the color that you want on the color wheel. Not a huge deal to me, but some may complain.
The mouse has 3 different lighting modes: (4 if you include off) Steady, ColorShift, and Multi Color Breathe. I think the mouse looks best in the "Steady and ColorShift" modes. Sadly the Multi Color Breathe mode has a strobe light effect when the lights dim on any sane speed level. The RGB does bleed into each other and is more apparent depending on how drastically different the colors are in brightness and shade . For example: a dark blue, white, dark blue color scheme will show the white bleeding into the blue more apparently than say a light blue, light green, light blue color scheme. I actually really like this as it softens the transition between colors. Some (I'm sure) will disagree. Overall this is some of the best RGB I've seen on a mouse. (Since my camera is garbage it was really hard to get a shot of the light bleeding or capture the strobe light effect so I left it out).
Static blue RGB top down view: https://imgur.com/xoBO9hH
Static blue RGB Angle view: https://imgur.com/6U9gGjp
RGB off side view: https://imgur.com/WQyGe3Z
RGB off angle top down view: https://imgur.com/YaamJFH
Build Quality:
"No" is the keyword here: No flexing, No wobbly buttons, No shoddy finish, No double clicking (on all 3 copies), No garbage RGB diffusion, and No Rattling...(scroll wheel, sensor, buttons, etc)!
In a word: Solid
Rival 3 Rattle Test: https://imgur.com/49JlIDh
The Steelseries Engine 3 software is one of the easiest to use that I've come across. It is straight forward and doesn't have useless bloat. All settings from the software will be saved to onboard memory on the mouse so it isn't needed after everything is set up... GREAT feature. It does not allow for different profiles, which sucks, but on the plus side it does allow you to delete unused dpi levels. Which means that you can run only 1 DPI level and remap the DPI button to something more useful. Overall I like the software, it's simple, easy to use, and straightforward.
Software Pic 1: https://imgur.com/OYHuUPs
Software Pic 2: https://imgur.com/4GNr0C6
I really like how this mouse looks. The slim frosted plastic around the base of the mouse is almost camouflaged with the lights turned off. I don't see it until I'm just a few feet away. If I didn't know that it was there I probably wouldn't notice it. It can be just inconspicuous enough to be used in a professional setting in an office (since it's 95% black), or set up to be as obnoxious and Willy Wonka-esk as you want. I think adults, kids, and kids-at-heart will love the aesthetics of this mouse (count me as the 3rd variety).
This mouse comes in at $30, silly competitive for all this thing has to offer.
Am I Happy With My Purchase and Will This Mouse Be My Main?:
Without question the answer is a resounding YES (to the first part of that question)! This mouse has a premium feel to it and definitely competes with many mice above it's price point. Not just in performance but in aesthetics, build quality and use cases as well. I have very few complaints about this mouse and the shape is just as comfortable as it is accurate.
Sadly I will have to say no to the second part of that question. I could see myself playing well with the mouse in competitive games, but not well enough to replace any of my top mice. The only reason for that comes down to the sensor placement, NOT the sensor itself. I am willing to adjust my grip if I really love a mouse, but I am not willing to destroy years worth of muscle memory for one. Tweak a little, yes, completely change it...not a chance. How about for general use? Probably not. The ONLY reason that I say that is the scroll wheel. It doesn't feel amazing to scroll long web pages and the scratchy sound it makes irritates me after awhile.
Steelseries got 90% of the mouse right in my opinion and if they fixed the few issues that I have with it I have no doubt that it would be at least in my top 3. For now I will keep it as a back up.
EDIT After re-reading this post I realized that my answer to "Will This Mouse Be My Main?" was vague at best so I re-wrote part of this paragraph to give a more decisive answer.
Who is This Mouse For (and Not For):
This Mouse is For:
-Medium to Large hand fingertip/relaxed fingertip users (Dare I say GOD TIER)
-Small to Medium hand claw grip users
-People on a budget
-Power PC users who also game (Accountant by day, Apex pro by night)
-RGB fiends
-RGB haters
-Minimalist lovers
-PC users who have to work/play around other people
-People who use medium to high dpi levels (or those that don't mind high stock LOD)
-People that love to mod and/or customize their mice
Who is This Mouse NOT For:
-Palm grip users (small hands can do it, but there are better mice suited for that)
-Fingertip users with small hands (my opinion)
-People who prefer really tiny mice (UL2 for example)
-People looking for more tactile and heavier clicks (I get it)
-Those that like hard to press-in scroll wheels
-Those that want paracord and PTFE feet stock
-People who can't get used to small side buttons
-People who use low dpi levels (at least those that like low LOD)
-*POTENTIALLY* those that use hard mouse pads
-Those that have to have the absolute best sensor tech
-Folks who love white peripherals (this one only comes in black)
- People that don't ever want to touch software
-MMO/RPG players that like a lot of mouse buttons
Improvements I Would Like to See in a new Revision:
-If you aren't going to upgrade the sensor than please add thicker mouse feet to mitigate the problem
-Change the price to $40 and add a paracord and PTFE feet, or at the bare minimum just a paracord
-Add a scroll wheel that is quieter or find a way to mute the scratchy scroll wheel sound
-Make the RGB Brightness adjustable in the software (low priority)
-Add more RGB modes for those that love crazy effects (low priority)
\If you've made it this far you have reached the end of the main review and I will be going into the two fixes for this mouse\**
Is This Mouse Worth Putting Money Into (totaling about $65 including the mouse)?:
The answer to this is completely up to one question: is this mouse perfect for you besides the liftoff distance, cable, or sensor position? If your answer is yes to the first two they are easy fixes (if you have the budget for it), the sensor position can't be fixed sadly.
I absolutely love this shape so I had to find out what the upgrades/fixes would do to this mouse. Here is how to fix 2/3 of the issues.
Liftoff Distance Fix:
EDIT: Thank you to altM1st for reminding me that there is a simple and virtually free fix for the LOD. It is a simple tape mod (I haven't had to use this in years...). I will add a link to tailslol who also wrote a great review months ago that shows a nice picture of where to put the tape and what kind he used. We share a lot of the same view points as well.
BUY THICKER MOUSE SKATES. It may seem like a no brainer solution, but you would be surprised that some people don't think of this. My recommendation is to go with Corepad mouse skates. For this mouse they made them .75-8mm thick. These are considered to be thick skates and many early Logitech G Pro Wireless and G pro users had lots of issues with the early versions. This was because they were so thick and the Lift Off Distance was so low (and unchangeable). That isn't a problem here since the Lift Off Distance is so high. After applying these skates the LOD feels comparable (but still a touch higher) to my XM1 with Tiger Arc 2 skates and the lowest setting turned on. This next option I have not tried but sounds like it may be promising (if it works) is to try the Lexip ceramic mouse skates. They are 1.2mm thick (the thickest I have ever seen) and if they are not TOO thick the LOD distance will be one of the lowest on the market. The biggest con for those feet is that they are said to add around 9g of weight to the mouse.
Cable Fix:
Get a paracord! This step will cost you $20-25. I recommend this step ONLY for those that are able to safely remove the mouse feet without ruining them (the last step will be better for novices). I have paracorded a lot of mice and I just can't seem to do this consistently with teflon feet. Even with the blow dryer method the glue on the bottom of the feet just never seems to sit right when reapplied. PTFE feet are usually stiffer and easier to remove (in my experience). However, if you happen to have the magic technique to do this you will now have a $50-55 mouse. It makes the biggest difference out of the 2 mods/fixes, if you don't mind the stock LOD that is (more details on feel below). After this mod the mouse still feels well balanced even after removing the bulky front strain relief. I have tried cables from CeeSa, Paraflex, Space Cables and a few others. They have all been good. If you are from the USA I highly recommend Scace Cables (the cable I used was from them) as the shipping is faster, quality is just as good as the others AND it has a bit more customization options. If you live in the Eastern Hemisphere I would go with CeeSa, and of course if you live in or around Canada I would go with Paraflex.
Cable and LOD Fix:
This is the best option in my opinion to truly unlock the true potential of this mouse. It is the most expensive and the one that I recommend to do for a paracord modding beginner. The feet will cost $8-15 on top of a $20-25 cord. So just be prepared for that if you go this route. This was the biggest improvement for me on how the mouse moved and handled. You no longer feel the cable swing no matter where your mouse bungee is. I didn't notice much cable drag before but after I swapped the cable out it became VERY apparent how much cable drag there actually was. I've paracorded many mice and it was pretty easy to do. After changing the cable it also made the mouse 3g lighter (for some I'm sure is the biggest improvement). You can also situate the aftermarket strain relief to be angled as well when you put the mouse back together, another win! The mouse feet were a nice upgrade, truly, but the better cable completely transforms how the mouse felt for me. It also increases the mouse's sex appeal...if your significant other gets turned on by tech and matching setups.
Rival 3 weight after Paracord and Corepad upgrades: https://imgur.com/TJMKBYH
The original strain relief can be used with a paracord, BUT you will have to use a drill to widen the hole for the paracord to fit. I did this on the XM1 because it looks much cleaner that way, on this mouse though a standard heat shrink looks just fine (and of course sheds a few grams). Another tip, the cable will come with a long black heat shrink and a shorter clear heat shrink for the front. I would make sure that after you get the black and clear heat shrinks applied correctly to pull the clear heat shrink partially through the opening hole. Doing this will make the fit more snug and the cable will have no side to side movement. To do this (if you already closed the mouse and it wobbles) GENTLY pull the cord outward while twisting the cable back and forth until a portion of the heat shrink is visible.
I recommend the heat shrink to look like this: https://imgur.com/juNhwiu
Which Fix is worth it and Answering a Future Question
EDIT After adding in the tape mod I wanted to recommend to everyone, who has a problem with the LOD, to try the tape mod FIRST before spending any extra money on mouse skates. After you apply the tap mod try it out in-game for awhile. This should be easier to tell if the mouse is for you without being distracted by the LOD.
If you don't mind the cable, are afraid of opening the mouse, just want to make the mouse better on a budget, and/or just want better LOD, then go with the Corepad skates. You will have only $40 invested and this will compete directly with the stock Razer Viper Mini (for my hand size this one would win hands down). If you want to go all out because you love this mouse and want to transform it into a head-clicking monster no matter the cost than go with the paracord and LOD option for around $65. For me, even after all of these mods, the mouse was still not able to beat my main (that still has a horrible cable and stock mousefeet). Don't get me wrong, it is DRASTICALLY improved, but the sensor placement is still the Achilles heel for me.
Some of you (I'm sure) are already thinking of typing in the comments, "Why would you put so much money into a $30 mouse when you could buy a mouse for $50-$70 with all of those features already added and has a better sensor?". That is a very valid question. And to those people I give you one answer: SHAPE. It doesn't matter if you can get a Model 0 for $50, an XM1 for $60, or even a wireless G305 for under $50. If the shape doesn't do it for you it won't matter how great the sensor is, how soft the cable is, how fast the feet are, how many extras come in the box, or how fast those new optical switches are. It's actually better for people that almost always add their preferred skates and paracords to there mice to their liking and to also match their setup. For people like that it won't matter how good the stock cable or mouse feet are if they are going to take them off anyway and add $35 onto an already $70 mouse.
Ending Statement
Thanks to all that made it this far! I hope I was able to shed some light on this mouse for any that were interested. Overall this mouse is one of the best price to performance purchases I have seen in the mouse world to date. If they fixed the couple of gripes that myself and many others have with the mouse this could absolutely be THE option in it's price range.
If you have any questions or would like to see more pics/clips please feel free to ask in the comment section and I will do my best to oblige. And as always if anyone spots any mistakes in the review I will be happy to fix all mistakes to avoid any misinformation.
Happy clicking everyone!
submitted by MinalanSpellmonger to MouseReview

DAY 6 of protesting for a fairer monetization model

Armor Up!

As my plans to create a "DAY 5" protest plummeted into the oblivion of a twisting nether, I crawled out with newfound wisdom. My health crisis awakened me to three immutable truths about this universe faster than a Warlock can kill himself with lifetap. First, the only way to prevent Blizzard from under-cutting our needs is to have precise coordination; unless we all agree to one immovable set of demands, Blizzard will literally hold boardroom meetings to discuss how to give us as little as possible. Second, the moment they are forced to give a PR response, we've won; they are indefensible after years of lies, manipulation, and designing game-systems to be optimal for milking players. Third, we need to take this beyond Reddit into Twitter, YouTube, and app-stores; they're unlikely to respond to our protests on Reddit exactly as they are, and this way they can avoid answering us directly. But before I get into details, allow me to remind you what we're fighting for:
AAA game
  • 2 years 100 people (if anything I think the average might be higher both in people and time) => 1 game $60
  • 2 years 70 people (size of Team 5) => 6 standard-legal expansions
    • Bundle $80 * 6
    • "mini expansion" 26% of $ 80 => $20
    • => 0.7 game (This is ~ the percentage of cards you will get while ignoring rarities and things like battlepass xp, cosmetics, and pre-order time-frames. This doesn't include the Classic Set.) $600
So about 10 times the price for 70% the effort from Blizzard and and 70% of the game (10 * 1.3 * 1.3 = 16.9).
The paywall is the main reason why players quit or commit to drudgerous grinding (which shouldn't happen in a videogame because that creates addiction, and because your time is wasted if you're not truely having fun). For more data on the monetization issue of Hearthstone please visit this post.
Did you want cosmetic upgrades for your cards too? That'll only be about a year's worth of rent.

Outright removal of the battlepass

Battlepasses are manipulative practices which weedled their way into our games and we've been complacent about them because they seemed like good deals relative to how much we were price-gouged by microtransactions before. They exist only to harbor addiction by keeping you tied to a commitment, lock content with an arbitrary limited-time-frame which players grind at the end of the season to not miss, and you may potentially not grind enough xp to earn the skins of your Tavern Pass. In addition, Blizzard will certainly use the bonus-xp events to control when you play in a way they couldn't before. Finally, you should only be coming back to a game for fun, and not to be industrious in a fictional space. Battlepasses HAVE NO PLACE in Hearthstone!

Ben Lee's stimulus package

Forget about the rewards track changes that essentially gives players +10.5 packs this season (plus extra selection on which slot machine you gamble on). That's 1-2 non-duplicate epics, 3 non-duplicate rares, 3 non-duplicate commons, and 300 dust for most players. I know this is precious when you're accustomed to in-game poverty, but it's not worth what we're protesting for by a long-shot. Like the American Federal Government, they're ignoring the systematic issues they created and snuffing out opposition with a pathetic stimulus. They may as well have said "let them eat funnelcakes". And if they make another PR move that offers us more packs, no matter how many that may be, ignore that too.


Once 90% of people on this subreddit collectively agree to the demand-list, I'm calling for the beginning of our official Twitter, YouTube, and app-store protest. This means that we'll all reply to the latest tweets on some specific accounts and comment on the latest YouTube videos of some channels once a day until the end of the overall Hearthstone protest on this subreddit. I'll anounce the go-signal on a daily post after we agree. Please don't begin without this coordination since we wouldn't be taken as seriously without it.
On these platforms, I invite you to post this preprepared message (except for in reply to the tweet about Veteran's Day):
We demand a fair monetization model from Blizzard! [Reddit link of that DAY X Post] #NoMoreWhaleGames
The Twitter accounts are:
(Sadly, I could not find Ben Lee's account, if it exists)
The YouTube accounts are:
This is a call to reply to 5 different Twitter accounts and comment on the latest videos of 3 different Youtube accounts daily (and more may be added upon suggestion in the comments), which should take about 10min/day from participants. If even a mere quarter of the people who upvote this post participate in this, we will STORM these platforms, or else we will endure this pain year on year.
For those of you who haven't already, I invite you to post a bad review or 1-star rating on the Google Play Store or App Store. This matters to Blizzard because games with a lower rating have a harder time climbing the top charts. We've already reduced Hearthstone on the Google Play Store to 3.9 and 3.6 on the App Store, with a substantial drop last week.
Finally, once we agree on our demands, there will be no negotiations with Winnie Mussolini and we will not tolerate compromises. So we must choose them wisely.

The NoMoreWhaleGames demand-list for Hearthstone

  • The shop in Hearthstone is revamped according to the following changes in the obvious nessesary ways (IE: No more $69.99 for 60 Classic Packs).
  • For every hero, there is a $3.99 purchase called a "Class Bundle" which provides playsets of all the cards of that hero in a given expansion set, including wild. As well as class-cards, those bundles will provide specific neutral cards of that set such that one could have every* card if they bought all the bundles. The exception is neutral legendaries because there have only been 3-5 of them since Ungoro.
  • For every set, there is a $39.90 bundle that encompasses every Class Bundle of that set. This is the new Mega Bundle. The price of this bundle is decreased according to the Class Bundles already purchased. It includes one golden pack of that set and the neutral legendaries as bonuses.
  • Class Bundles, Mega Bundles, and adventures that aren't standard-legal are discounted by 25%.
  • Each of these bundles can only be purchased once per account.
  • Each of these bundles can be purchased regardless of how many cards a player already has.
  • There remains the option of buying packs (this is indeed called "NoMoreWhaleGames", but purchasing packs under this environment would be unessesary for the normal player in every respect, and some may want to show their support expensively by going for all-golden collections/decks or just enjoy opening packs).
  • The price of standalone packs is $0.99 for 1 pack up to $29.99 for 60 packs.
  • There is no Class Bundle or Mega Bundle for the Classic Set. Instead, the Welcome Bundle contains 60 Classic Packs (because 10 Classic Packs is too slow of a start) and 1 Classic Legendary. It costs $16.99 (it was only $5 before to hook players with sunk-cost fallacy).
  • Seasonal Battlegrounds Perks can be bought with gold.
  • You get 10 gold per win instead of for every 3 wins.
  • Achievements give 10% of their achievement-point worth as gold when achieved.
  • Rewards for tiers 7-12 of Arena are increased by a pack. Rewards for tiers 8-11 are increased by ~20% more gold. Rewards for tier 12 is increased by ~100% more gold. The same is true for Duels because that has the same rewards as Arena.
  • Golden epics cost 800 dust to craft, golden rares cost 400, and golden commons cost 200. Golden legendaries stay at 3200.
  • You can complete quests in all modes (except when restricting the mode is integral to the quest, for example: "Win 2 games of Duels").
  • Removal of the Tavern Pass and rewards track in favour of the old quests system (Weekly quests should be removed because they hold people to a arbitrary commitment, same as the Tavern Pass; you are not an employee within Hearthstone, it is not your duty to earn gold.).
  • Reemburse players who bought the Tavern Pass by giving them the premium skins without them having to work for it, and some gold.
  • Reemburse the players' Madness at the Darkmoon Faerie pre-orders (in in-game items) as though this new monetization model had been in effect during the Madness at the Darkmoon Faire pre-order period.
This creates a future with 3 types of paying players:
  • The broke/budget player who buys into standard for ~$30.96 for his favourite 2 classes and spends ~$15.98 each expansion.
  • The average paying player who buys into standard with 1-2 Mega-Bundles and buys the Mega-Bundle + maybe a few cosmetics each expansion.
  • The most hardcore player who seeks to collect a whole wild collection and maybe golden decks/sets and all the skins.
All-in-all, Blizzard still makes a boatload of money by making these changes. And when I look back on it, I realize the "most hardcore player" and even the "average paying player" are still whales, which speaks to how obscenely expensive it was before. If any of ya'll have suggestions on how to improve this list and/or how it can be changed to eliminate whales while remaining fair, please tell us in the comments.

There's always room for another

This shall not only be the end of Blizzard's whale-hunting practices in Hearthstone but, in time, the end of whale-hunting across the industry. Other gaming communities will talk about how the Hearthstone community retaliated against its predatory publisher, and will follow suit with their own revolt. In order to make this sweep possible, we must prove that we can do it once to a massive publisher. One success would warrant reputation and support from doubtful gamers who would rally with us in fiery indignation if they believed it wasn't impossible to end whale-hunting by protesting. I invite you to do this for their sake as well and to contribute to their protests when the sweep begins.

End of turn

It's an insult that Blizzard and Ben Lee remained silent after more than 10 000 of us already protested on Reddit. If it weren't for the Tavern Pass which sparked a pent-up outrage and all the daily posts expressing our discontent, Hearthstone would surely remain a fundamentally broken game. However, this is different than the protests of 1-3 years ago because we have momentum from the backlash of the new reward system. And we're taking heed to issues within Hearthstone instead of foreign politics.
Please upvote this, vote on comments, and comment on this to trigger Reddit's algorithm to get it to the top of hot, but not just these DAY X posts. If more posts reach thousands of upvotes and new ones shift into hot, it creates liveliness and prevents interest from dieing out. In order to ensure this succeeds, we must collectively accelerate it into an even bigger riot than before!
Let's use the momentum of this past week as a slingshot to get the PR response we deserve. And when we do, may we proudly spam into the circlejerk subreddit... "P2p BTW".
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submitted by Anonymous020102 to hearthstone

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